Great! That's what we're here for! Yah, Jim!

Here's the way a rotary switch with 3 connections works. The hot lead is connected correctly but you've connected the neutral to the black screw. That's the screw that feeds power to the bottom light. When you turned the switch it shorted the hot to neutral causing the breaker to trip. It's a bit confusing but brass and black are usually if not always hot. A black wire in house wiring is hot, white is neutral. So if you connected the neutral (ribbed wire) to the nickel terminal the switch would work properly depending on the logic of the switch. I.E. ...Off - On (top lamp) - On (Both lamps) - On (bottom lamp) - Off. In some the 3rd position is omitted. Good luck and a two terminal socket would be easier to deal with.

So looked at 3 Cuisinarts and without getting into the complicated electronics involved it's basically a timer circuit. The control knob is wired as a variable resistor.

OK look inside when it's running. Are all the elements glowing? If all the elements are glowing then it has full power. Now look at the darkness control. As you advance it it should cause the toaster to stay down longer. If not and the rotary control has no effect then you'd have to check if the control has continuity. It's basically a variable resistor that regulates a timer circuit that I figure is like a 555 chip. I have a few taken apart on my bench and will check them out.

Toaster - make and model? Sounds like an element is broken or darkness dial is faulty. iron - Make and model again? Thermostatic control failed or faulty. electric kettle - M & M? Sometimes the connection to the base gets dirty. I just repaired one where the center pin on the kettle was displaced so badly that it wouldn't set down on it's base. Bent it back to align it properly and works fine.

Ha ha! I use a Kitchen Aide toaster oven as a drying oven after I run laptop boards through my ultrasonic cleaner. And I heat the water in a salvaged coffee maker so no food in any of those! "I got the controller from eBay" Was it guaranteed? I see the plug plugs into the griddle at the top left in the picture of the bottom. Is that area clean? Especially where the sensor plugs into the griddle? You could test the sensor by immersing it in hot water (Unplugged of course!) and measuring the resistance from the plug to the place it plugs in. One of those will go open ( infinite resistance ) when the set temperature is reached. Boiling water at this sea level will be in the area of 211º F and the controller can be adjusted below that point. So one of the leads should open up at that temperature. Probably the "hot" lead. I.E. the wire that's not ribbed or goes to the smaller plug end.

The only other possibility is that the heating coils have somehow shorted out making a lower resistance circuit. That would be very unusual since I've never seen that happen. Wait, it looks like there's a solid loop heater on the bottom. Can you post a picture of the entire bottom?

Looks like the original controller is still available: "one that supposedly works" Where did you get that one from?

Hey Nathan, "I did replace the corded pronged controller with one that supposedly works" So probably that replacement's thermostat is bad as well. Make and model? And the temp control is on the probed power connector? With the make and model we could find a new thermostat.

These appliances have a tab interlock so they won't work without the cover in place. Are the tabs on the lid broken or missing? Otherwise the interlock switch might be bad. Here's a guy using on on YouTube: Here's a screen shot at :47: You can see the interlock feelers in the slot at the upper left. If those are inoperative or broken the machine won't turn on.

did you get my email?

Yup, classic failure point! And since the plug is difficult to replace and other wires will also fail at the same point since they’re probably already weak it’s easier just to replace the whole cord.

I could help you with the replacement. If I have to do the soldering I'd adjust my price so you wouldn't be tempted to trash them. Send pictures of the headphones. Try testing them by plugging them in to test them then try pushing the wire together, compressing them, at the earpieces and the plug and see if you can get them to come back on. That would tell you it's the wire.

So the first thing to determine is if the cord is bad (Which is usually the case.) Does the wire split and go to each ear? Or does it not split and only go to one ear? Here's an appropriate replacement for the split type: I have repaired them by not replacing the wire and shorting up the leads to the earpieces but usually other wires quickly fail after doing that.

Hi, I do this kind of work. What brand of headphones?

Inspect all the components mounted to a heat sink. Do you see any signs of burning or overheating?

Have you tried all the resets listed here?: https://www.fixya.com/support/t17323928-lifespan_treadmill_dc_1_code I repair stuff like this but only if it's not an IC. I.E. anything mounted to a heat sink.

@ohbejoyful So what model is your Cuisinart? Ours is a Pro Custom 11. I'm tempted to take it apart and see what could have gone wrong with yours! You know once you get Jim and I on the case we are never satisfied and completely frustrated until we can reach a conclusion and repair!

So if you'd like me to look at it you can bring it to me in Beaverton. Contact me through the Forum Administrator.

"The builder did not install GFCIs in the kitchen." OK that's a violation of National and local Codes. Are they in the bathrooms? That should have been picked up during your inspection when you purchased the house. It sounds like something either Jim or I will need to look at to determine the problem. I'm in Beaverton and Jim is further down but is often up here.